Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 3) - Painting, Or Not?

In the last post, MoPac "Eagle River" 6-6-4 (Part 2), I finished off the trim molding and got up to masking the car for witness coat. 

Status of the "Eagle River" as I'm starting Part 3 with all the trim molding in place.

This post is all about painting... or so I hope!

Color-Sanding the Witness

Like with all good investigations, before the painting... It's best to color-sand the witness!

Fortunately, I found that the Tamyia Glue had slightly damaged a number of places along the edge of the trim molding when I applied it.  Unfortunately, I didn't notice the extent of it until after I sprayed the car with the 'witness coat' of paint, which is always good to do as a primer, get the body the same light color, where you can see shadows and anything weird in the surface finish of the model before proceeding farther.

Notice the crazing along the edges of the trim molding in this photo from Part 2...

This was expected, but I didn't realize I had not caught all of it.  The plastic welding process tends to lead to a bit of 'crazing' of the smooth plastic surfaces of the base part, and also there's some bleed-out of the plastic from the trim strips being welded, usually forming a very small bead of plastic along the strip being welded.  Usually this can be cleaned up with a knife or a couple passes with sand paper.  

Right side of 'Eagle River' witness coated in my custom-mixed 'Eagle Gray' (which is wrong).

On this 6-6-4 with the trim molding, these areas are in some rather tight and specific areas that I don't want to hit with the sand paper or pads.  Thus I'm mostly using only the edge of the sanding pads, working at a slight angle to avoid hitting the trim molding on the opposite sides of the window or body panel, under the pad's area.  This also seems to help as the pad naturally will spring and lay into the areas needing the work, and leaving the larger open spaces of the carside between the molding untouched.  I did make some basic light color sanding passes in those areas to polish them, but that took less than 5 minutes.  Most of the time was spent working right against the trim molding.

Color-sanding with 3200, 8000, and 12000 grit sanding pads from Hobby Lobby.

I use water with my color sanding, just to keep the dust down and make it easier to get the surface back to a 'polished' surface.  I always keep a paper towel handy to wipe away the wet sanded powder.

This spot was a drip of liquid glue that hit the car when I was working on the trim molding.

In two spots, there was damage from where a drop of Tamyia liquid glue landed on the side of the car.  This one looks bad, but is actually already sanded down smooth in the paint.

And a second place where I dripped onto the carside.  Thankfully both were easy fixes with sanding and polishing.

This damage is also already cleaned up and sanded down.  The lighting of these two photos don't pick up the look of the sanded paint finish, which to the natural eye is much more visible.  However, in both cases the area is completely smooth to the touch and doesn't even feel rough at all.

Back to Painting...

Color sanding complete and roof witness coat on.

I mixed a very light gray roof color, which I will have to reshoot again with a darkened color for the 'MP Gray'.

Reshooting the Mixed "Eagle Gray"

Left side masked for blue color paint.  In this shot the sanding to fix the side damage is more visible.

I masked off the custom mixed 'Eagle Gray' and shot my blue color, which was matched to the Walthers MoPac Express Boxcar.  

Right side masked for blue color paint.

Two strips of Tamyia tape cover the windows and the molding, and another strip covers the lower body and skirts, with additional strips to cover the extra lower bits.

Sad Times with Blues

Color mismatches... sigh

Ok, I didn't get the 'Eagle Gray' right... needs more yellow/tan I think.  But at least the blue matches the Walthers model.  I even did a Santa Fe Blue drop against the blue ends of the boxcar, dead on match.  It's almost like Walthers painted their MoPac cars with Santa Fe Blue.... huh...

Right side of the car with Santa Fe Blue.

The color matched to the Walthers MoPac Express Boxcar's Santa Fe Blue (which I know is wrong now!) applied to the model.

Left side of the car with Santa Fe Blue.

At this point I was still a bit concerned that the custom gray (cream) color for the carside and skirts was too light and not 'tan enough, and the Santa Fe Blue was too 'saturated' (i.e. too much color richness) and not enough gray in it for the color pallet that I believe the MoPac was going for.

In Closing... For Now...

Left side with the wrong colors.

As I know the 'Eagle Gray' is wrong, the light gray on the roof is also way too light, so I'll be needing to repaint that again too.

Right side with the wrong colors.

Of course it was about this time that I talked with a friend and found out that TruColor makes the various correct 'MP Eagle' colors... sigh... ok... so I get to wait a week or so for those to show up now.

TruColor's TCP-122 vs TCP-020 according to their website color chips.

Sigh... well, that's annoying!

So that's where I'm at for now with this project.  I expect to reshoot the new TruColor MoPac 'Eagle Gray' for the carsides over the whole carsides.  That will also act as a primer to tone down the 'too saturated' Santa Fe Blue, in anticipation of the new gray-er MP 'Eagle Blue' color from TruColor.

Jason Hill

Related Articles:

I've done a number of Walthers 6-6-4 sleepers, as well as other arrangements of their cars.  Here's the two recent ones that I've been working on...

Santa Fe's 6-6-4  "Surprise Valley" in Shadowline scheme

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 1) - Painting & Decaling Right Side

Starting my long-time planned project to make a Shadowline 6-6-4.

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 2) - Decaling Left Side & Reassembly - 

Continuing the Shadowline 6-6-4 project with more decaling!

MoPac's 6-6-4 "Eagle River" in The Eagle scheme

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 1) - Research and Fluting - Starting into my MoPac 6-6-4 project.

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 2) - Finish Molding & Masking - Getting the 'Eagle River' ready for paint!

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 3) - Painting, Or Not? - Like with all good investigations, before the painting... It's best to color-sand the witness!

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 2) - Finish Molding & Masking

Continuing from Part 1, I've decided to go ahead with an "in for a penny, in for a pound" plan of work on this car in terms of trim molding by fashioning the lower side trim bar-shape molding.

Fraternal twin sister 6-6-4s - Santa Fe's "Surprise Valley" and the new MoPac "Eagle River" as it looks starting into Part 2 of the construction blog.

The MoPac 'Eagle River' project has been a challenge so far, and as I'm working on it immediately after the first couple parts of my Santa Fe 'Surprise Valley' project.  The Shadowlining decals on the 'Surprise Valley' are done at this point, at the same time I'm working on the trim molding on the 'Eagle River'.  Neither car has their windows, interior paint, diaphragms, grabirons, or other mechanical work completed.

Thus, I'm considering these two cars to be 'fraternal twin sisters' compared to my previously built Walthers 6-6-4 Santa Fe TTG 'Chama Valley', and various SP/UP cars from 10+ years ago.  I'm sure I'll catch up the older models to the standards I have planned for this current batch of 6-6-4s.

Lower Fluting Installation

This is tricky to do as I have to set up the offsets and use my calipers to 'snap' the scribe line along the body to mount the molding to.  I was trying to work this out for the window trim in the last post, but with the roof on and the various reference points hard to catch with the calipers, I settled for eye-balling it for those strips.  If I 'd removed the roof, I probably could have had good measurements down from the hard molding line of the upper edge of the carside.  Something to note in the future.

I'm fabricating the lower trim strip from 0.010" x 0.040" styrene.  The prototype was probably different in size, but with the existing issues of the window trim C-channels being slightly over-scale, I'm not going worry about the lower one being off by an inch in scale or so.  In the prototype photos, most hardly show this lower molding strip at all.  Mostly the end of it is visible near the door, where the shadow and the black pinstripe line is thicker because of the shadow under the molding adding to the appearant line thickness.  Shots from 3/4 angles also show a slight thickness of the molding, so I don't think it was thicker than about 1".

Two scribed lines to form the boundaries to the lower trim molding.

To help position the molding, I scribed two lines, one 0.285" from the bottom of the belt C-channel, and another line offset another 0.040", so about 0.315".  This results in the lower scribed line about 0.040" from the lower car side panel's bottom edge.  I was primarily working from the 0.040" offset from the bottom panel joint, because I wasn't 100% sure of how precise I did the work of keeping the vertical position of my applied C-channel from last post.  Thankfully it turned out to be very accurate and also was very straight, as I checked the position in the previous post by eye.

Welding the lower trim 0.010" x 0.040" styrene strip in place.

Applying the liquid Tamyia glue to weld the lower trim in place.

My checking gauge to position the lower trim molding.

I used a square strip of 0.040" x 0.040" styrene to form my visual offset checking gauge.  Note that I'm being very careful not to let any Tamyia liquid glue that is active get on the 0.040" x 0.040" styrene, as that would cause significant damage to the smooth finish of the carside in only an instant.

Another view of the gauging strip.

I was regularly checking the position vertically of the molding strip every couple inches as I applied the Tamyia liquid welding glue, and then moved down the car another couple inches.  Each point I checked, I could very subtly change the position, and then I would try to keep it held with my finger, while I applied the liquid glue.  A few times I had to gently push the strip to remove slight bowing and keep it straight.

Left side of the completed molding.

I'm actually pleasantly surprised how straight the molding came out on this model.  During the laying out of the lower trim molding, I measured the lower window trim as level within about 0.010" at the ends of the molding, thus I felt ok to use it as a 'fence' to run the caliper-scribing off of.

Truck Painting

Right side of the completed molding.

Note that by this point I've actually already painted the trucks.  I used a AppleBarrel Pavement (dark gray), and then applied a straight black wash over the whole truck to darken it more.  As the prototype should be black, but I wanted it a bit weathered for an 'in service' look, plus it will highlight the details of the trucks better this way.  The underbody of the car has not been painted yet, when I get the chance I'll mix up some dark gray StarBrand paint and shoot everything behind the skirting, but in all the prototype photos all of the exterior side of the skirting is the 'Eagle Gray' color.

Against my photo white-booth, left side.

At this point the trim molding is complete.  I still made a couple finishing passes with a bit more glue to ensure that the whole strip is welded down to the carside.  Soon I'll be needing to remove the roof, and I don't want any of the molding coming loose during that process!

In the photo white-booth, right side.

At this point, I was also doing some sanding work along the edges of the trim molding to remove any of the crazing and flaws that come from where the brush touched the carside when applying the liquid glue, or got out onto the carside itself. - As we'll see later, I could have done more at this point with this... but the first witness coat of paint exposed all the problems.

Disassembly for Painting

Completed trim molding, left side.

Disassembly of the Walthers cars is always fun... and I possibly should have done this before applying all the trim molding.

Completed trim molding, right side.

However, having faith that my previous experiences with twisting the tar out of the Walthers passenger car bodies to get the roof clips to release.  This time I was a bit more nervous anmd needed extra care to avoid damaging tge trim molding with my hands' gripping of the body.

Roof

I marked the inside of the roof end, as to the vestibule.

As I want to be clear which way the roof fits, I went ahead and marked the inside of the roof as to which end is the vestibule.  

Car Ends

Removed car ends for painting.

On this project I removed the ends from the car as well, to paint.  I've not installed the diaphragms yet, as I plan to paint them different colors anyway, darker gray for the bellows and various bare-metal and grease for the outer side of the striker plate's contact surface.

Inside of the ends with the steel springs to operate the diaphragms.

These early 2000-era cars had spring steel plates to provide tension on the diaphragms when they're installed.  I always found that these were too stiff, so either soften the shape of the springs or remove them and replace the diaphragm springs with other options.  The diaphragm springs were eventually retooled to place plastic springs into the diaphragm's outer striker part itself.  That version seems to work perfectly well without any modifications.

Disassembled for Masking

Vestibule of the car with the end removed.

As I was twisting the main body, the ends actually volunteered to remove themselves early in the process, so off they came!

Blind-end of the car with the end plate removed.

The main roof clips are pretty aggressively holding on and basically pinching the edges of the roof against the sides.  You almost have to twist the body enough that the clips hit the end of the notches in the side and spring themselves off that way.

Body with the roof unclipped and ends removed.

With the ends removed and the windows not mounted, I was actually able to go through the section windows and tease at the clips... it ended up not helping, as the roof came off from the body at the other end of the car first anyway.

Another overall view of the car dismantled for masking.

The far side of the roof wanted to stay, but it was eventually carefully unclipped and removed too.  I gently filed some of the mating surfaces of the clips to keep them from locking quiet this tight ever again!   Just so when it's time to pull the car apart again, at least two more times, it won't be as dangerous to the body of the car that I've already put so much effort into modifying.

Masking for Paint

While I have Tamyia Masking Tape for much of the finer details and the exterior striping, I used generic low-tack blue tape everywhere else on this car.

I started masking around the 6-sections of the car.

In this part of the car I applied the blue tape with the adhesive towards the windows from the inside.

Double Bedrooms masked off.

Along the rest of the interior, I applied the blue tape with the tape adhesive towards the interior of the car, not towards the wall.

Other side of the 6-section end of the car.

In this shot I'm working my way forward on the left side of the car.  I broke the tape into several smaller sections to more easily work around the various side-core clips and around the interior wall sections that made it harder to get the tape into place.  During this time, I was flexing the carsides outward to gain the needed space to insert the tape.

Close-up of the 6-section end with the end taped over.

I also placed small bits of tape down into the end of car restrooms, to cover over the windows there.

Roof is fully masked over with blue tape.

Right side of the car with all the masking in place.  I applied a full-width tape strip down the top, tying the masking from both sides together and keeping any paint from getting into the interior of the car.

Vestibule end of the car masked off, additional masking placed over the door's windows too.

I covered over the ends of the car with the blue tape as well.  This tape fits basically perfectly on the width.

Blind-end of the car with end removed and taped over.

I cut the roof tape overhang in the center, which allows it to fold down and cross over the end-tape, accounting for the arch in the roof.  Rather like wrapping paper over a boxed gift, accounting for the extra material folding over the corners.

In Closing

I'm going to be sneaky and end this blog post here.  However, I'll give you a quick preview of the witness coat of paint on the "Eagle River" from next post, where I'm checking to see how close I was on positioning the trim molding for the windows, not too bad.

Checking the size and spacing of the stripes on the MP Express Boxcar from Walthers with the new trim molding on the "Eagle River".

On this project the painting has turned into its own project and novel... So with this post already being as long as it is with all these photos, I'm going to save the painting for next time.

Jason Hill

Related Articles:

I've done a number of Walthers 6-6-4 sleepers, as well as other arrangements of their cars.  Here's a recent one that I've been working on...

MoPac's 6-6-4 "Eagle River" in The Eagle scheme

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 1) - Research and Fluting - Starting into my MoPac 6-6-4 project.

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 2) - Finish Molding & Masking - Getting the 'Eagle River' ready for paint!

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 3) - Painting, Or Not? - Like with all good investigations, before the painting... It's best to color-sand the witness!

Santa Fe's 6-6-4  "Surprise Valley" in Shadowline scheme

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 1) - Painting & Decaling Right Side

Starting my long-time planned project to make a Shadowline 6-6-4.

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 2) - Decaling Left Side & Reassembly - 

Continuing the Shadowline 6-6-4 project with more decaling!

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 1) - Research and Fluting

MoPac Colorado River 6-6-4 TCY Sleeper from the 2007 run - built by SAM-TECH - Brasstrains,com website

This blog is to cover my project to kitbash a Walthers 6-6-4 into the MoPac sleeper 'Eagle River', along the lines of the 2007 The Coach Yard model of 'Colorado River', shown above.

Undecorated Walthers 6-6-4 right side

This is the starting point for my MoPac 6-6-4 sleeper.

Researching the MoPac paint schemes and the 6-6-4 Eagle River

My research for my MoPac 6-6-4 Eagle River project started about 20 years ago when my passenger train mentor told me that the Santa Fe's No.23 North, aka Grand Canyon, didn't always run two Santa Fe 6-6-4s in the consist, but every third day the Richmond, CA to New Orleans sleeper was a MoPac car.  So our modeled consist really should have a MoPac 6-6-4 that we could trade out to represent this.  Therefore, I picked up an undecorated Walters LW STD 6-6-4 Pullman Sleeper in the early 2000s when the model was available and I saw one floating by at a hobby shop.

Caption for the Colorado River, one of four STD 6-6-4s assigned to the MoPac's Colorado Eagle in 1942, from Carbuilder's Cyclopedia Vol.11.

Decals and painting research for this project has been the main holdup to modeling this car for 20 years.

According to the Pullman drawings of the MoPac 6-6-4s show the names as follows:

"Arkansas River" to MP 606 in 1963

"Colorado River" to MP 607 in 1963

"Eagle River" to MP 608 in 1963

"Gunnison River" to MP 609 in 1963

For many years I've planned to model the "Colorado River", however given that most of the models out there are of the "Colorado River", I usually like to model cars that haven't been done before.  So I'm planning to switch to modeling the "Eagle River".

Walthers produced this 50ft AAR Express Boxcar in MoPac colors

A couple years later, I was able to pick up this MoPac Walthers/Proto2000 produced model of an express boxcar.  The colors should be correct to match and spacing for the stripes to transfer to the Walthers 6-6-4 sleeper.

MP Colorado River 6-6-4 TCY Sleeper from the 2007 run - built by SAM-TECH - Brasstrains,com website

The TCY model is very nice, including very fine C-channel strips for the trim molding.  This last week I was able to find this on the Brasstrains website archive, as the model is not for sale, but a lovely collection of photos were still online.  I'm still wondering if the roof and lower skirt color is the same as the window band.  I still seem to be seeing a lighter color on the window bands towards maybe even white.  So I need to track that down in more detail.

Cropped photo showing the blind-end details and full width diaphragm of the Colorado River. - BrassTrains,com website.

Modeling the River-series 6-6-4s are also more complicated than the other MoPac LW Pullmans because these cars had three strips of trim molding mounted to the basic smooth-sided Pullman 6-6-4s.  The ones above and below the windows were C-channel, and the third strip of molding (under the lower yellow stripe) appears to have been a piece of bar-stock molding, roughly 4" tall.  TCY model seems to be missing this lower trim molding strip.
So I'll need to figure out a way to model this small channel molding for the two around the windows.  It's much smaller than any mass-produced styrene shapes, so that option's out.

Missing the Walthers Boat

Walthers website info on the MoPac 6-6-4.

I didn't know that Walthers actually produced the MoPac 'Colorado River' as a model... so of course I missed it...

Walthers 932-16724 MoPac 'Colorado River', of course it was produced sometime in the last 20 years. - This picture was from an expired auction on-line.

... and of course I have already started this model before I found this out.  So it's rather pointless now to try to find one on-line.  Oh well... I'm pretty close to finishing this project up.  Plus this way I can model the proper trim molding without messing up the existing paint scheme.

The Coach Yard's 14-1-2 'Eagle Circle' from 2007 shows the version of "The Eagle" scheme I want to do on the 'Eagle River' with the train name on the letterboard instead of Pullman after 1948.

Given that I've done a bit more research in the last week or two on how MoPac cars were painted post-1948, the center letterboard "PULLMAN" was replaced with "THE EAGLE" centered with "MP" on the ends of the letterboards in Aluminum-Bronze lettering (aka 'silver').  It seems the 6-6-4s were also the only cars to get this exact treatment of trim molding.  The MoPac's 10-5s didn't have it, while the 14-1-2 TCY model seems to show rectangular molding above and below the windows, instead of C-channel... or maybe they didn't model the full C-channel, like on their 'Colorado River' model.  Thankfully that's not a mystery that I need to work out for this project!

I also could probably do without trying to model the full-width diaphrams on any more cars than I need to, which I have put on several of my other SP Walthers sleeping cars.

Planning the Trim Molding

Left side of MoPac 'Eagle River' with pencil marks to plan trim molding.

I decided to sand the molded smooth surface of the car side with a 3200-grit sanding pad so that mechanical pencil lead will have a little bit of 'tooth', thus being able to leave a mark.

Right side of MoPac 'Eagle River' with pencil marks to plan trim molding.

I more aggressively sanded the carside with a paper in the 300-400 grit range to get some more 'tooth' for the mechanical pencil to leave better lines.  I plan to clean up with finer grit after I apply the molding, which the paint should cover smoothly when it is applied.

Modeling the Trim Molding

I'm planning to fabricate the trim molding out of Evergreen 0.010" x 0.020" styrene strips.  Evergreen's smallest C-channel shape strips are 0.060" tall.  I need it to be ideally, 1/2 that tall, around 3" in scale.  Looks like the best I'll be able to do is 0.040" or so, about 3.5" in scale.   I think from the photos, TCY's model used photo-etched channel, which I'm not going to be able to do.

I've added the first 0.020" strip, layed flat against the carside.

I'm trying to start this process by laying a 0.020" tall strip flat against the carside, and then apply the two strips on-edge above and below that.  It will be interesting to see if this works or not.  The hardest part is getting the first strip applied, and gauging the width of the 0.010" flange to be added.

Lower flange applied and cut off short of end of car rivet corner strip.

Lower flange strip applied.  I'm using Tamyia Liquid Plastic Glue, which is like a low viscosity water and applied with the brush.

Another view showing the shapes with shadows in better viewing angle.

Part of the trick of photographing this process is getting the light and shadows in the right places to cast good shadows of the details.  You can see some of the scuff marks from the courser sand pads above the window, which allowed the pencil marks to stick.

Completed lower trim molding, with upper flange installed.

I'm a little surprised how easily the first piece of trim molding went on.  

Detail of upper flange installed on the lower trim molding.

I'm not able to take pictures of all the key moments of this process, as it takes at least 7 fingers to do it.  I do try to get some pictures of the flanges being added partway through the process.

3/4 detail view of the lower trim molding installed.

Here's another view of the completed lower trim molding with better lighting and perspective to see the details.  The trim molding will be painted Aluminum when the car is complete, so it will show the shadow over the upper and lower flanges on each piece.  

Here's an overview of the completed left side molding strips.

I may have positioned the upper molding strips too low, as in right above the windows, where some of the prototype photos suggest it should be a little higher... However, due to the molding assembly as I'm modeling it is larger than prototype, I'm just going to live with the difference.  I've also checked it against the MoPac express boxcar I have, and the aluminum painted strips on the boxcar match nicely with the trim molding, so I'm going to accept how this has worked out.

I already applied the upper molding strip here, and the lower's in process.

Time for the right side of the car... I missed photographing the upper strip, and so did more to document the lower strip as I was gluing it together.

Completed molding strips in place.

One of the things that I noticed with this project is that I spent quite a bit of time afterwords, about 1-2 hours later, retracing the edges and joints of the trim strips with the liquid glue to get it to be fully welded to the carside.

Several of the prototype  photos of the MoPac 6-6-4s that are in the Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol.11 show detailed views of the prototype car... including the lower trim molding.  It is much more subtle than the window's channel molding... so I'm still deciding if I want to put the lower trim molding on, which the lower yellow and black stripe will be applied over the top of.  I will ponder this for a couple more days while I consider the painting options.

Paint Matching

This is a bit of a planning sneak into the next post, I set up a card with some of the paints that I'm looking at using.  

My own paint sample card.

The "Eagle Gray" (as seen on the express boxcar) will need to be custom mixed.  I'll be using one of the Depot Buffs and lightening it with straight white and shifting it towards gray with the DRGW MOW Gray.  This will take some experimentation on cards and checking it against the express car to get it as close as I can.
For the "Eagle Blue", I think my 10-15 year old bottle of Polly Scale ATSF Blue will work.
The roof's "Gray" will probably just be the straight DRGW MOW Gray.

Note 20260529: I found that TruColor already offers the whole series of 'Eagle' colors for MP.  So I've ordered a selection of those to use on this car... after I already tried to custom mix my own using the Walthers Express Boxcar, which it seems has the wrong blue color!  I'll be covering the painting into the correct colors in Part 3.

In Closing

I did have to replace the last lower molding, as I had the flanges roll in and collapse, getting glued into an 'A'-shape without the needed open area to cast the shadows.  I knew this was going too well with the first 3 strips.

Completed Trim Molding, Right Side.

Again, time to fix something... I ended up being able to use my chisel-blade Xacto, which was able to lift the defective molding strip off the body.  I sanded and cleaned off the few bits of styrene that remained stuck to the carside.  This brought me back where I was before I applied the first molding, then I reapplied another set of styrene strips to build the new 4th molding strip.  

Completed Trim Molding, Left Side.

The reason I include these mistakes, damage and redoing steps of the model, is so my readers don't worry if you mess up a step, or in this case a set of the molding.  Just pull it off, clean it up, and start again.

I'm going to  wrap this post up for now.  I'll cover the painting next time in MoPac "Eagle River" 6-6-4 (Part 2).

Jason Hill

Related Articles:

I've done a number of Walthers 6-6-4 sleepers, as well as other arrangements of their cars.  Here's the two recent ones that I've been working on...

Santa Fe's 6-6-4  "Surprise Valley" in Shadowline scheme

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 1) - Painting & Decaling Right Side

Starting my long-time planned project to make a Shadowline 6-6-4.

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 2) - Decaling Left Side & Reassembly - 

Continuing the Shadowline 6-6-4 project with more decaling!

MoPac's 6-6-4 "Eagle River" in The Eagle scheme

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 1) - Research and Fluting - Starting into my MoPac 6-6-4 project.

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 2) - Finish Molding & Masking - Getting the 'Eagle River' ready for paint!

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 3) - Painting, Or Not? - Like with all good investigations, before the painting... It's best to color-sand the witness!