Saturday, May 23, 2026

Modeling MoPac "Eagle River" Pullman 6-6-4 (Part 1) - Research and Fluting


MP Colorado River 6-6-4 TCY Sleeper from the 2007 run - built by SAM-TECH - Brasstrains,com website

This is my project to kitbash a Walthers 6-6-4 into a MoPac sleeper, along the lines of the 2007 The Coach Yard model.

Undecorated Walthers 6-6-4 right side

This is the starting point for my MoPac 6-6-4 sleeper. 

Researching the MoPac paint schemes and the 6-6-4 Eagle River


My research for my MoPac 6-6-4 Eagle River project started about 20 years ago when my passenger train mentor told me that the Santa Fe's No.23 North, aka Grand Canyon, didn't always run two Santa Fe 6-6-4s in the consist, but every third day the Richmond, CA to New Orleans sleeper was a MoPac car.  So our modeled consist really should have a MoPac 6-6-4 that we could trade out to represent this.  Therefore, I picked up an undecorated Walters LW STD 6-6-4 Pullman Sleeper in the early 2000s when the model was available and I saw one floating by at a hobby shop.

Caption for the Colorado River, one of four STD 6-6-4s assigned to the MoPac's Colorado Eagle in 1942, from Carbuilder's Cyclopedia Vol.11.

Decals and painting research for this project has been the main holdup to modeling this car for 20 years.

According to the Pullman drawings of the MoPac 6-6-4s show the names as follows:
"Arkansas River" to MP 606 in 1963
"Colorado River" to MP 607 in 1963
"Eagle River" to MP 608 in 1963
"Gunnison River" to MP 609 in 1963

For many years I've planned to model the "Colorado River", however given that most of the models out there are of the "Colorado River", I usually like to model cars that haven't been done before.  So I'm planning to switch to modeling the "Eagle River".


Walthers produced this 50ft AAR Express Boxcar in MoPac colors

A couple years later, I was able to pick up this MoPac Walthers/Proto2000 produced model of an express boxcar.  The colors should be correct to match and spacing for the stripes to transfer to the Walthers 6-6-4 sleeper.

MP Colorado River 6-6-4 TCY Sleeper from the 2007 run - built by SAM-TECH - Brasstrains,com website

The TCY model is very nice, including very fine C-channel strips for the trim molding.  This last week I was able to find this on the Brasstrains website archive, as the model is not for sale, but a lovely collection of photos were still online.  I'm still wondering if the roof and lower skirt color is the same as the window band.  I still seem to be seeing a lighter color on the window bands towards maybe even white.  So I need to track that down in more detail.

Cropped photo showing the blind-end details and full width diaphragm of the Colorado River. - BrassTrains,com website.

Modeling the River-series 6-6-4s are also more complicated than the other MoPac LW Pullmans because these cars had three strips of trim molding mounted to the basic smooth-sided Pullman 6-6-4s.  The ones above and below the windows were C-channel, and the third strip of molding (under the lower yellow stripe) appears to have been a piece of bar-stock molding, roughly 4" tall.  TCY model seems to be missing this lower trim molding strip.
So I'll need to figure out a way to model this small channel molding for the two around the windows.  It's much smaller than any mass-produced styrene shapes, so that option's out.


Missing the Walthers Boat


Walthers website info on the MoPac 6-6-4.

I didn't know that Walthers actually produced the MoPac 'Colorado River' as a model... so of course I missed it...

Walthers 932-16724 MoPac 'Colorado River', of course it was produced sometime in the last 20 years. - This picture was from an expired auction on-line.

... and of course I have already started this model before I found this out.  So it's rather pointless now to try to find one on-line.  Oh well... I'm pretty close to finishing this project up.  Plus this way I can model the proper trim molding without messing up the existing paint scheme.

Given that I've done a bit more research in the last week or two on how MoPac cars were painted post-1948, the center letterboard "PULLMAN" was replaced with "THE EAGLE" centered with "MP" on the ends of the letterboards in Aluminum-Bronze lettering (aka 'silver').  It seems the 6-6-4s were also the only cars to get this exact treatment of trim molding.  The MoPac's 10-5s didn't have it.

I also could probably do without trying to model the full-width diaphrams, which I have put on several other of my Walthers passenger cars.

Planning Trim Molding


Left side of MoPac 'Eagle River' with pencil marks to plan trim molding.

I decided to sand the molded smooth surface of the car side with a 3200-grit sanding pad so that mechanical pencil lead will have a little bit of 'tooth', thus being able to leave a mark.

Right side of MoPac 'Eagle River' with pencil marks to plan trim molding.

I more aggressively sanded the carside with a paper in the 300-400 grit range to get some more 'tooth' for the mechanical pencil to leave better lines.  I plan to clean up with finer grit after I apply the molding, which the paint should cover smoothly when it is applied.

Modeling Trim Molding


I'm planning to fabricate the trim molding out of Evergreen 0.010" x 0.020" styrene strips.  Evergreen's smallest C-channel shape strips are 0.060" tall.  I need it to be ideally, 1/2 that tall, around 3" in scale.  Looks like the best I'll be able to do is 0.040" or so, about 3.5" in scale.   I think from the photos, TCY's model used photo-etched channel, which I'm not going to be able to do.

I've added the first 0.020" strip, layed flat against the carside.

I'm trying to start this process by laying a 0.020" tall strip flat against the carside, and then apply the two strips on-edge above and below that.  It will be interesting to see if this works or not.  The hardest part is getting the first strip applied, and gauging the width of the 0.010" flange to be added.

Lower flange applied and cut off short of end of car rivet corner strip.

Lower flange strip applied.  I'm using Tamyia Liquid Plastic Glue, which is like a low viscosity water and applied with the brush.

Another view showing the shapes with shadows in better viewing angle.

Part of the trick of photographing this process is getting the light and shadows in the right places to cast good shadows of the details.  You can see some of the scuff marks from the courser sand pads above the window, which allowed the pencil marks to stick.

Completed lower trim molding, with upper flange installed.

I'm a little surprised how easily the first piece of trim molding went on.  

Detail of upper flange installed on the lower trim molding.

I'm not able to take pictures of all the key moments of this process, as it takes at least 7 fingers to do it.  I do try to get some pictures of the flanges being added partway through the process.

3/4 detail view of the lower trim molding installed.

Here's another view of the completed lower trim molding with better lighting and perspective to see the details.  The trim molding will be painted Aluminum when the car is complete, so it will show the shadow over the upper and lower flanges on each piece.  

Here's an overview of the completed left side molding strips.

I may have positioned the upper molding strips too low, as in right above the windows, where some of the prototype photos suggest it should be a little higher... However, due to the molding assembly as I'm modeling it is larger than prototype, I'm just going to live with the difference.  I've also checked it against the MoPac express boxcar I have, and the aluminum painted strips on the boxcar match nicely with the trim molding, so I'm going to accept how this has worked out.

I already applied the upper molding strip here, and the lower's in process.

Time for the right side of the car... I missed photographing the upper strip, and so did more to document the lower strip as I was gluing it together.

Completed molding strips in place.

One of the things that I noticed with this project is that I spent quite a bit of time afterwords, about 1-2 hours later, retracing the edges and joints of the trim strips with the liquid glue to get it to be fully welded to the carside.

Several of the prototype  photos of the MoPac 6-6-4s that are in the Railway Prototype Cyclopedia Vol.11 show detailed views of the prototype car... including the lower trim molding.  It is much more subtle than the window's channel molding... so I'm still deciding if I want to put the lower trim molding on, which the lower yellow and black stripe will be applied over the top of.  I will ponder this for a couple more days while I consider the painting options.

Paint Matching


This is a bit of a planning sneak into the next post, I set up a card with some of the paints that I'm looking at using.  

My own paint sample card.

The "Eagle Gray" (as seen on the express boxcar) will need to be custom mixed.  I'll be using one of the Depot Buffs and lightening it with straight white and shifting it towards gray with the DRGW MOW Gray.  This will take some experimentation on cards and checking it against the express car to get it as close as I can.
For the "Eagle Blue", I think my 10-15 year old bottle of Polly Scale ATSF Blue will work.
The roof's "Gray" will probably just be the straight DRGW MOW Gray.

In Closing


I did have to replace the last lower molding, as I had the flanges roll in and collapse, getting glued into an 'A'-shape without the needed open area to cast the shadows.  I knew this was going too well with the first 3 strips.

Completed Trim Molding, Right Side.

Again, time to fix something... I ended up being able to use my chisel-blade Xacto, which was able to lift the defective molding strip off the body.  I sanded and cleaned off the few bits of styrene that remained stuck to the carside.  This brought me back where I was before I applied the first molding, then I reapplied another set of styrene strips to build the new 4th molding strip.  

Completed Trim Molding, Left Side.

The reason I include these mistakes, damage and redoing steps of the model, is so my readers don't worry if you mess up a step, or in this case a set of the molding.  Just pull it off, clean it up, and start again.

I'm going to  wrap this post up for now.  I'll cover the painting next time in Part 2.

Jason Hill

Related Articles:


I've done a number of Walthers 6-6-4 sleepers, as well as other arrangements of their cars.  Here's a recent one that I've been working on...

Santa Fe's 6-6-4  "Surprise Valley" in Shadowline scheme
Starting my long-time planned project to make a Shadowline 6-6-4.

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 2) - Decaling Left Side & Reassembly - 
Continuing the Shadowline 6-6-4 project with more decaling!

Friday, May 22, 2026

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 2) - Decaling Left Side & Reassembly

This is a continuation of SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 1), which I'm covering decaling the left side of the car this time.

Left side of masked and painted Walters 6-6-4, ready to start left side decaling of Santa Fe's "Surprise Valley".

So we pick up the project with the car painted Tamyia Gloss Aluminum and already 'color sanded' to get any surface flaws cleaned up.

Lower Decal Stripes


Starting in the middle this time...

I reversed the application method from the right side of the car.  This time I decided to start with the center 3-stripe section, below where the car's faux name panel will be.  Notice the two light pencil marks to show where to align the ends of the decal.

Lower left decal stripes applied next.

Now I'm applying the full height 'dense' stripes between the door post and the center faux name panel stripes.

... and the right side lower stripes.

Next the full height stripes from the faux name panel to the blind-end of the car.

Overview of lower decals coming together.

Here's how the car's looking at this point.  Notice also that I'm using the Walthers' box foam patches to keep the completed decals on the other side of the car from getting scratched or damaged.

Upper 3-stripe decal applied, finishing the faux name panel ready for the car name.

Completing the upper 3-stripes of the faux name panel.  Looks like I missed the cut by about 0.010" there just above the left edge.  I'm not sure I really want to try to fix that small of a flaw with another overlay of 3-stripe decal.

Car name applied into the faux name panel.

The car name applied, which completes the lower car side.  Decaling in this order I feel went faster, as I had the center low stripes to align the end full height stripes with.

Upper Decal Stripes


Upper left decal stripes applied.

Upper stripes, notice the mark on the upper right end of the decal, which shows me how long this one should be.

Upper right decal stripes over the upper berth windows.

I was running a little short on decals, so I applied this upper decal over the windows, but it will be short and requiring a patch piece of decals.

Close-up of the short spliced piece of upper stripe to reach the end of the faux letterboard to the left.

Patched in piece, which brings the upper right decals all the way to the pencil mark on the upper lip of the car side.

Aweee... Bummer!  And the Fix...


Accidents happen

I ended up damaging a section of the stripes... sigh... So I removed the damaged area and then painted over the area with a coat of Gloss Aluminum.  

There's still a little sink in the area, the depth of the decal film.  Oh well.

Then replaced the section of striping decals.

Here's an overview of the finished decals on the left side of the car.

All in all, this side was easier than the other side.  At this point I pulled out the masking tape, and reassembled the roof onto the body.

In Closing


Reassembled car for photographing.

At this point the car does not have the windows installed.  I plan to do some of the interior detail/painting.  Then I'll be installing the windows, window shades, diaphragms, grab irons, couplers, etc in future posts.  So while the exterior's looking very sharp now, there is still much to do before this car is complete and ready for service.

Jason Hill

Related Shadowline Scheme Articles:


SFE 1458 Diner in Shadowline scheme
Kitbashing SFE 1456-class HW Diner (Part 1) with a Rivarossi Model and Opening Thoughts - My on kitbashing a Rivarossi HW Diner into a Shadowlined Santa Fe diner, circa 1948.

Kitbashing SFE 1456-class HW Diner (Part 2) - More Body Work and Paint - My Part 2 on kitbashing a Rivarossi HW Diner into a Shadowlined Santa Fe diner, circa 1948.

Kitbashing SFE 1456-class HW Diner (Part 3) - Mechanical Upgrades - My Part 3 on kitbashing a Rivarossi HW Diner into a Shadowlined Santa Fe diner, circa 1948.

Kitbashing SFE 1456-class HW Diner (Part 4) - Shadowlines - My Part 4 on kitbashing a Rivarossi Diner decaling the car into Shadowline scheme.

SFE 1524 Snack-Coach Diner in Shadowline scheme
Kitbashing SFE 1524 (Part 1) - Shadowlining a HW Chair Car - My kitbash of Walthers 3060-class HW Chair car to a Shadowlined Snack-Lounge/Coach car. In Part 1 I am focusing on window changes and decaling the car.

SFE "Surprise Valley" 6-6-4 in Shadowline scheme
SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 1) - Painting & Decaling Right Side
Starting my long-time planned project to make a Shadowline 6-6-4.

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 2) - Decaling Left Side & Reassembly - 
Continuing the Shadowline 6-6-4 project with more decaling!

Articles from Other Authors:


SFE 1456-class Diner kitbash by Colin Kikawa, along with multiple other interesting kitbashes - Enjoy!

Tom Casey's ATSF_hwt_Diner.pdf - SFE 1404 Kitbashed Diner

Wednesday, May 20, 2026

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 1) - Painting & Decaling Right Side


Santa Fe's "Surprise Valley" as modeled with Walthers 6-6-4 Pullman Sleeper.

A friend of mine and I about 15 years ago were talking about modeling the Santa Fe's "Shadowlined" 6-6-4 sleepers, which was used between 1947 and 1952 on many of these cars.  He had a solid-gray 1960s-era Walthers model.  

Excerpt from Santa Fe Historical Society website on Shadowlined cars, June 1952 letter.

He wanted me to build a model of the Santa Fe's 'Surprise Valley', which remained in Shadowline scheme until very near the end of the scheme in 1952.

 One of Santa Fe's 6-6-4 with removed skirting in stock Walthers Two-Tone Gray (TTG) paint "Chama Valley".

Unfortunately, his model, like my "Chama Valley", had their skirting removed as offered by Walthers.  I'm not sure when the Santa Fe started deskirting their 6-6-4s.  So his solid-gray 6-6-4 will probably end up receiving a dark gray stripe and the two white boarder strips to turn it into another TTG model like the "Chama Valley".

Santa Fe's "Surprise Valley" Project


Right side of Walthers 6-6-4 which will become SFE 'Surprise Valley.'

Therefore, we decided recently that my friend's model would not be suitable for the "Surprise Valley" in the pre-1952 Shadowline scheme.  I was able to find another undecorated Walthers model on Ebay and picked it up.  So this will be the story of the "Surprise Valley" (Take two).

Disassembly


The body of the Walthers car comes apart by twisting the body fairly agressively.

I started this project with an Undecorated Walthers 6-6-4 Pullman Sleeper.  The model is molded in neutral light gray plastic.  The body of the Walthers car comes apart by twisting the body quite aggressively to get the roof clips to release.

Walthers pre-war Pullman trucks, inboard direction is to the left.

The Walthers trucks are removed and painted Gloss Aluminum.  I will also give the trucks some black washes to bring out the spring details, etc.

Bolster Modifications


Stock Walthers 6-6-4 underframe.

As with all my Walthers cars, I removed the stamped steel 'pickup springs' because they cause the trucks to bind up.

Bolster modifications.

The plastic sections of the bolster are also removed as the truck brake cylinders catch on them too.  These modifications allow the trucks to rotate smoothly and sit a consistent height.

Masking & Prep Work


Right side of the body with blue-tape masking from the interior side

I decided to keep the body as assembled as possible.  The interior is molded in light tan, but I don't want Aluminum to get overspray into those parts of the car.

Left side of the body with blue-tape masking from the interior side

The interior mask is done in several smaller pieces and then connected over the top and tucked into the sides to be sure the paint can cover all of the areas needed.

Blind-end of the body with masking.

The ends of this car will have some weathering, so I'm not too concerned about getting 100% full and perfect coverage in those areas.

Vestibule end with masking over interior of the body.

I'm not sure what the vestibule interior color was on these cars.  So I'm not really worried about it at this point.  I probably will set up an OwlMtModels Tailgate Marker on the vestibule end of this car, as any of my 6-6-4s on the Santa Fe may be called on to operate as the end car in the Santa Fe's Grand Canyon (North).

Color Sanding


Right side of the painted model

At this point I sprayed the body with Tamiya Gloss Aluminum spray paint.  The paint layed down pretty well, but there were a few flaws in the finish.

Left side of the painted model

Either a bit of blown debris (Nevada has some breeze and dust airborn) or pinhole sized bubbles in the paint resulted.

"Color Sanding" with 6000+ grit sanding pads with a bit of water.

I used very find sand paper pads to sand them down smooth.  But there were slight difference in the luster of the metalic color.  I lightly dusted on a bit more paint to help cover that up.

Shadow Stripe Decaling


The lower left stripes applied with some water drops still on the carside.

Again, like on the SFE 1524 HW Coach, I'm starting with the lower stripes from the end of the car to the edge of the car name/number faux panel.

Close-up of my small pencil marks to indicate where the faux name panel will start.

I made some small marks in pencil on the carside on the skirts, including a center mark, and then two end marks for the faux name panel.  I also put two marks on the side above the stripes, at the bottom of the windows.  Unfortunately the one on the left is a little too heavy, and it penetrated the paint, so I'll have to touch that up later.

The lower right stripes applied betweenthe faux name panel and the vestibule door.

I ended up with a little bit of extra length on the decal stripes, which I allowed to spill over onto the door post.  Unfortunately, the decals set a little too well and I couldn't easily lift it off after the fact.  So I'll probably just mask and shoot a little bit of extra Aluminum paint to cover the door post again.

Faux-name plate area kept clear of shadow stripes.

I found out doing this side that this method that worked well on the HW chair car and Diner, doesn't work well on a car that doesn't have the belt-rail.  On the other side I started with the center lower 3-stripes, which then I tied in the two end strip sets, which seemed to work better on this type of car.

Planning the car name position.

For the "Surprise Valley" lettering, I decided that about 9ft would be a good length for the name panel needed to remain after the shadow stripes were applied.

Completed faux name-plate panel striping above and below completed.

The striping is cut down to only 3-stripe to apply above and below the name panel.

Overview of the whole car with the faux name plate decals completed.

From this distance the faux fluting looks pretty good.

Car name applied and centered up on the faux name panel.

I decided that about 12-14" looked good as the space between the panel end and the end of the car name lettering.

Overview of the carside with the car name in place.

I made another small mark in the very upper edge of the carside, which will be under the overlap of the roof when it is in place.  I measured the center faux-letterboard to be 24ft long, thus 12ft to each side of my center mark will be the end of the upper stripes.

Upper Striping


Upper left 'light' 5-stripe decal applied, with the 6 upper berth windows.

I applied the upper stripe decals over the upper berth windows in the Sections, as I need to keep the stripes straight.  The decals can be cut out and wrapped into the window openings afterwords.  I decided it would be better to cut down the upper stripes to be only 5-stripe tall.

Upper right decal stripes applied.

This section of decal was able to fit very accurately, between the faux letterboard panel and the door post at the vestibule.

Upper berth windows opened.

I punctured the decal over the upper berth windows.  Then with the MicroSol to soften the decals I folded the decals into the window openings.

Window openings are now cleared out.

Here's a closeup of the upper berth windows.

Touched up the lower door post with a touch more Aluminum paint.

I made a quick mask out of some tape, with a blind (non-sticky area) right over the decals, so as not to damage them, and resprayed the lower door section and door post.

Starting on the upper single stripe over the letterboard panel

I cut a couple of stripes down to one strip wide.  I may do some photo-shoping and see what this car would look like with two stripes above and below the letterboard, more like what I have on the SFE 1524 and 1458.  While I kinda like the look of the larger letterboard, I'm not sure this is the way Santa Fe would have done these cars.  Both my previous Shadowline cars, done off photographs of the prototypes show the letterboard only about 9-10" tall, basically only one stripe missing from these 'sparse' spacing shadowline stripes.

Lower single stripe in place.

Now the letter board space is framed, time for the Letterboard decal!

And there it is!

I evened up the positioning to have equal space to the left and right end of the "SANTA FE" decal on the faux letterboard panel.

Overview of the right side of the car.

Here's a nice overview of the first completed side of the Surprise Valley.

In Closing


Right side of the "completed" Surprise Valley decaling work (at least for now) and the roof put back on.

This blog post is going to get VERY LONG if I throw in the left side of the car being decaled, so I'll call it here and cover that side in the next blog post.

The Chama Valley in TTG and Surprise Valley in Shadowline certainly make a striking mix of cars in a train.

I'll probably start doing a bit of research on what color interiors these cars had.  As I expect to be doing the regular slate of interior work, including safety handrails along the aisles, window shades, etc.

Jason Hill

Related Articles:


SFE 1458 Diner in Shadowline scheme
Kitbashing SFE 1456-class HW Diner (Part 1) with a Rivarossi Model and Opening Thoughts - My on kitbashing a Rivarossi HW Diner into a Shadowlined Santa Fe diner, circa 1948.

Kitbashing SFE 1456-class HW Diner (Part 2) - More Body Work and Paint - My Part 2 on kitbashing a Rivarossi HW Diner into a Shadowlined Santa Fe diner, circa 1948.

Kitbashing SFE 1456-class HW Diner (Part 3) - Mechanical Upgrades - My Part 3 on kitbashing a Rivarossi HW Diner into a Shadowlined Santa Fe diner, circa 1948.

Kitbashing SFE 1456-class HW Diner (Part 4) - Shadowlines - My Part 4 on kitbashing a Rivarossi Diner decaling the car into Shadowline scheme.

SFE 1524 Snack-Coach Diner in Shadowline scheme
Kitbashing SFE 1524 (Part 1) - Shadowlining a HW Chair Car - My kitbash of Walthers 3060-class HW Chair car to a Shadowlined Snack-Lounge/Coach car. In Part 1 I am focusing on window changes and decaling the car.

SFE "Surprise Valley" 6-6-4 in Shadowline scheme
SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 1) - Painting & Decaling Right Side
Starting my long-time planned project to make a Shadowline 6-6-4.

SFE "Surprise Valley" Pullman 6-6-4 Shadowline Sleeper (Part 2) - Decaling Left Side & Reassembly - 
Continuing the Shadowline 6-6-4 project with more decaling!

Articles from Other Authors:


SFE 1456-class Diner kitbash by Colin Kikawa, along with multiple other interesting kitbashes - Enjoy!

Tom Casey's ATSF_hwt_Diner.pdf - SFE 1404 Kitbashed Diner